Review: Koi Palace, San Francisco

Yank Sing was nice but we were really looking for a more authentic yum cha experience in the Bay Area without having to drive an hour South to Sunnyvale. A quick search for decent dim sum turned up Koi Palace in South San Francisco located conveniently near one of our regular Saturday shopping locations.

On arrival it was total chaos - the right kind of chaos - comprised of an army of eager Chinese families waiting for brunch. Very little English seemed to be on display but the queuing system was efficient; take a number and watch the electronic board with hungry eyes. 

Once seated the dining room is as chaotic but in a cheery way. There are tables shoved in every possible corner to maximise the number of diners. Bustling waitresses wander by with carts and trays or for the less adventurous you can order from a convenient paper menu with pictures - similar to those given at Din Tai Fung restaurants. 

Hand roasted suckling pig $18USD

Finding good roasted pork with crackling in the US turns out to be surprisingly difficult. This was excellent - the meat was tender and juicy the crackling crisp and separated from the meat for the unadventurous. 

Green onion pancake $4.80USD

Scallion pancakes are much more common in the US than at home presumably due to the regional foods brought by the local immigrant population. This is the largest pancake I've ever seen, light and chewy and not at all greasy. Delicious!

Crispy Taro Puff $3.95USD

My favourite dumpling of all time. Mashed taro is filled with a combination pork and vegetable filling then deep fried. This is an excellent rendition but leaves my friends a little wanting due to the fry oil; I don't mind since this is more for me.

Spinach and Shrimp Dumpling $3.95USD

The wrapper is light and thin, the filling is made from large chunks of prawn with vegetables and water chestnut. Fried slightly on the side and served straight from the steamer.

Xiao Long Bao $9.80USD for 10

I'm impressed that Koi Palace have Northern dishes as well as Hong Kong classics so I order a large tray of xiao long bao. Again I can't help but feel I have been spoilt by the paper thin Din Tai Fung wrappers that leave me wanting for other dumplings but the perfectly spiced and steamed filling of these dumplings more than makes up for it. The SF habit of placing soup dumplings in metal wrappers helps with the inevitable juice explosion.

Char Siu Bao $2.95USD

Well it's just not a yum cha lunch without BBQ pork buns is it? These are light and fluffy and obviously made from scratch on site which isn't always the case for high volume dim sum. The filling is good with plenty of meat and not too sweet. 

Sizzling Mongolian Lamb Buns in Hotpot $5.80USD

I have fallen in love with these Northern style buns after finding them in bakeries in Inner Richmond in San Francisco. A thicker bread style wrapper is seared and filled with seasoned Mongolian lamb served piping hot with Peanut oil and Sesame seeds. My eating companions declare them absolutely fabulous and manage to rival the Pork Buns as best yum cha dish of the day and possibly of all time. 

Egg Yolk Lava Bun $4.95USD

Now these are not to everyone's taste and my man put his down and handed the whole plate to me, but for me this is a perfect morsel. A creamy lard based pastry is filled with a salted whole egg yolk custard; it's like a hot Moon cake. Moon cakes are one of my all time favourite foods - I would like to eat more of this dish.

Durian Puff  $6.90USD

I had mistaken these for a similar radish puff that I used to buy at bakeries in Sydney, but the waitress didn't speak English and I can hardly resist an Asian pastry on an off diet day. Crisp rolls of pastry are filled with a Durian cream custard and then deep fried like a donut. Delicious and without the horror of dealing with the smell in preparation. 

Dan Tart $2.95USD

Another tea time classic; whole egg custard tarts in flaky pastry. I skip these but they disappear in seconds into my friends' mouths. 

What's the summary of Koi Palace? This is easily the best Asian food I've eaten in the US and this is some of the best yum cha I've eaten in my life. It's twice as good as Yank Sing for 2/3 the price. The food was so good I couldn't stop eating until I waddled out the door - calories well spent though I can't remember the last time I had a meal that satisfying.

Service is kind of what you expect - rushed, busy, chaotic and with varying levels of English. Who cares when the dumplings are this damn good?

Koi Palace

http://www.koipalace.com

Serramonte Plaza
365 Gellert Blvd
Daly City, CA 94015
Tel: (650) 992-9000

Authentic Chinese tea house and restaurant
Expect to battle hungry Chinese grandmas for a table


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Recipe: Low carb "coconut rough" bites

Whether you're looking for 'fat bombs' to add fat calories or whether you just need a sweet treat without breaking a low carb diet this low carb rendition of an antipodean favourite is just delicious.

Low Carb Coconut Rough

1 cup shredded coconut
1/2 cup coconut oil
1 cup Splenda
50g unsweetened baking chocolate
1 tbpsn cocoa
2 - 4 tbpsn cream or coconut cream

Method

• In a pan melt the coconut oil, this will be soft at room temperature and will require only light simmering
• Add the Splenda and stir until the sweetener is melted
• Melt the chocolate in the microwave or a double boiler and add to the oil mixture; then add the cocoa and mix thoroughly
• Add the shredded coconut and stir while heating on a low temperature
• Slowly add the cream, for a vegan variation use coconut cream
• Cook until all the coconut is soaked through with the fudge mixture,
• When the mixture has reached the consistency of gravy turn the heat off
• Take a small pan or tupperware container - I used a 10cm * 15cm container
• Pour the hot fudge mixture into the pan, you may need to tap the container on the bench to get the coconut mixture to create a smooth top
• Leave to rest until close to room temperature and then refrigerate until solid, preferably overnight
• If a white layer forms on the outside this is excess coconut oil that has not soaked into the coconut and is perfectly safe to eat
• Cut into cubes, this recipe should make around 25 pieces
• A shout out to Guittard 100% Cacao baking chocolate which is delicious and the lowest carb chocolate I can find on the market
• Calories listed are for the whole batch per piece macros are 62 Calories, 1.6g Carb (1.3g net), 6.7g Fat

Review: Sweet Maple, San Francisco

One of the things they don't tell you about growing up is how wonderful brunch is, a misspent youth meant I rarely saw lunchtime on a weekend. You get a little older and a lot less single and find yourself spending less time hugging the bathroom floor on a Sunday morning; suddenly breakfast sounds like a great idea.

Finding a great brunch spot in a new city is often a gamble involving overcooked eggs and generous but doughy pancakes. Luckily for us it turns out that one of the best brunch spots in San Francisco happens to be in our building.

Sweet Maple is a bustling cafe in Pacific Heights, at the corner of Steiner and Sutter Streets; often found with a large cult following queued up on the sidewalk outside. They only open for Breakfast and Lunch (9am - 3pm) and have a menu to match, but with this kind of business you can't imagine they need to open for dinner.

The waits can be long; being in our building we have the choice of pottering down at will but I would recommend coming before 10am or after 1:30pm on a weekend. The cafe caters well to the queue though with magazines, free coffee and water on hand as well as numerous chairs and benches.

Americano $2.75USD (milk based espresso drinks $3.75USD)

The coffee is easily the best I've had in San Francisco. They use all single origin coffees with a standard 2 shots per drink; delicious.

Big Hip French Toast - Millionaire style $12.95USD

The cafe really has every breakfast option one could imagine but what they are famous for is the "Millionaire Bacon" thick cut apple wood smoked bacon baked in Maple Syrup and Spices. You can add eggs and the famous bacon to any French Toast order.

Hass Benedict $13.50USD

I love the variations they have on classic dishes here; in this case I have ordered an eggs benedit with slices of roasted turkey, an entire avocado and a divine Chipotle Hollandaise. The sauce is delicious and the meat flavourful and moist, though I do not eat them I am assured that the side order of varietal potatoes is excellent.

The selections are endless though - all the meats are grass fed and delicious, the bread products are top quality (a notable a rarity in the US). Though pricey at $4.75 the homemade sausages, pork lime or chicken apple, are a definite must as a side for the protein lover. Fruit, pancakes, egg dishes and even lunch meals like salads and burgers are available. There's also a huge range of sides and additions for an extra on your meal, I can't imagine anyone not finding a dish they loved. Everything is delicious and the entire restaurant is filled with smug looking patrons.

What amazes me more than than the food is the service; despite being busy we are seated quickly and attended to graciously. The food comes within a few minutes of us ordering. What else can I say? This is almost the perfect brunch venue, much recommended and I look forward to taking visitors.

Sweet Maple 

http://sweetmaplesf.com

2101 Sutter St, San Francisco, CA ‎

(415) 655-9169 

Sunday brunch perfection
Come early or late or expect to wait

 
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Review: Yank Sing, San Francisco

Yum cha is the ultimate meal for me; tiny surprise morsels that fly by, a thousand tastes to share and a new surprise every time. When I heard that there was a James Beard award winning dim sum restaurant in San Francisco I just had to go. 

On a Sunday the place is thrumming with customers, the restaurant is decked out in the atrium of the Rincon Centre an upmarket shopping mall near Divisadero. Despite the many extra tables and our reservation we still have to wait 25 minutes with a motley crew of ravenous looking customers. A healthy number of eager looking Chinese mothers are in attendance - always a good sign at a Sunday dumpling event. 

My approach to yum cha is to get as many dishes as possible so I can try everything; even at the risk of leaving things behind. To be honest this isn't ideal at Yank Sing which is a good 3 times more expensive than any yum cha I've been to outside a casino. Still now I know what is worth separating me from my dollars and next time I'll come in with targeted ideas of what to choose. 

Szechuan green beans

A good rendition of this dish, the garlic is roasted and chewy but nothing extra exciting. 

Peking Duck with wheat buns

I don't understand the use of Vietnamese wheat buns in Chinese food in the US, but the sauce is delicious and the duck is crispy and sweet. 

Xiao Long Bao

These are good, the juices are warm and delicious and the dumpling is turned with spectacular care. Unfortunately spoilt by years of Din Tai Fung in Sydney we are a little disappointed that the skin isn't a little more dainty. 

Green Onion Pancake

Light, delicious, morish. The flakiness of the pastry makes me suspect they use lard, when it's this good it's worth it. I would come back for this dish alone. The cake is accompanied by a sticky satay sauce that sticks to the roof of your mouth in a satisfying fashion. 

Beef ho fun

The texture on this noodle could have been better, it felt like it had been in the steam trays too long. The filling is nice and peppery though. 

Fried pork breakfast bun

This is one of those dishes I look out for but isn't always available at every dim sum place. Instead of the white soft mantou style bread that Hong Kong made famous in the west with the char sui bao these Shanghai style baozi are made with a thick pastry skin more like a dumpling. Fried crisp and steamed to perfection, worth looking out for.

Combination Taro dumpling

This is always my favourite yum cha dish and if I can't find it I'll order it. Soft taro mash is filled with a meat and vegetable filling and then deep fried until the taro puffs up like a crisp cloud. I order these and they come out piping hot and wonderful, another 'must have' order on a return trip.

Dan Tart

I passed on the tarts but the boy managed to finish the plate despite crying full, which is a good sign. 

Mango Pudding

My weakness are the creamy squishy desserts and they have a mango pudding so I'm set. My only wish was that they served it with evaporated milk as you get at home. 

Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of the menu and my bill was in Chinese; so what do I mean when I say it was expensive? We went for brunch with 3 people and drank mostly tea and soft drink and the bill was over $200. I admit that I ordered a lot (not everything got photographed) but even still the same meal at home would have cost $90 and been of similar quality. When you compare to other dumplings in the Bay Area I can see why it gets such smashing reviews - good quality and authentic Asian cuisine can be very hit and miss. That being said I've enjoyed meals of $12 in tiny bakeries in Inner Richmond must as much.

The service is what you expect at a yum cha restaurant; fast paced, a little rushed and a little pushy. You can see the occasional American diner who is confronted by this but a lifetime of eating in hole in the wall Chinese eateries and I expect nothing less. Yum cha is always best observed with someone who either speaks Chinese or recognises the food; otherwise you can get some interesting surprises. I am happy as larry though, they have all my favourite dishes and at excellent quality. 

Not an every week brunch, but definitely a good spot for visiting guests or celebration meals. 

Yank Sing

http://www.yanksing.com

101 Spear St, San Francisco, CA ‎

Ph: (415) 781-1111

Upmarket yum cha 

Watch what you order and make your dollars count

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Recipe: Beef Bulgogi

Things have been a little quiet on the gourmande front because I'm losing weight at the moment, but that means plenty of room for good low carb recipes. This is one of our home favourites.

Beef Bulgogi

2 tbspn of soy sauce
3 tbspn of water
1 tbspn of Mirin 
1 tbspn of honey (or Splenda for low carb)
2 tbspn of sesame oil
2 chopped green onions
4 cloves of minced garlic
pinch black pepper
500g Sirloin Steak

To Serve

1/2 cup ssamjang
leaves of 1 head of romaine

Method

• Cut the beef into very thin slices; for best effect chill or freeze slightly so you can cut thin strips
• In a bowl mix the soy sauce, water, mirin, honey, sesame oil
• Add the green onions, black pepper and garlic then mix thoroughly
• Add the beef strips and stir to ensure that all the beef is covered
• Marinade for at least 4 hours

• Heat a BBQ or a flat grill until very hot. For best effect I tend to oil the pan slightly with more sesame oil and a little salt
• Grill the meat in small batches, it will cook quickly so be ready to flip and transport off the grill.

• Serve with cold lettuce leaves and ssamjang. You can buy ssamjang at most Korean and Asian supermarkets or you can make some fresh 
• Place a piece of lettuce in your hand, slather on some ssamjang and then 2-3 pieces of meat. Wrap up the lettuce leaf for low carb Korean deliciousness

Recipe: Low Carb Buffalo Chicken

Buffalo Chicken

500g chicken breast
8 tbpsn hot sauce (Tapatio for preference)
8 tbspn butter
2 tbspn low sugar ketchup
2 tbspn white vinegar
2 tbpsn almond flour
1 tspn smoked paprika
1/2 tbspn chili flakes
salt
pepper
oil for frying

Method

• Cut the chicken into strips or cubes, the smaller the pieces the higher the oil saturation will be so watch your calories and think smart
• In a bag place salt, pepper, chili, paprika and almond flour. Then place the chicken in the bag, shake until the chicken is well coated 
• Heat the pan super hot and add the chicken
• Fry until the chicken is brown and crisp, then place asside
• While the pan is still hot add the butter and melt on a medium heat
• Add the hot sauce, vinegar and ketchup and mix until a smooth consistency
• Add the chicken back to the fry pan and shake to coat the chicken
• Serve with celery sticks and fresh Ranch or Blue Cheese dressing
• Best accompanied with your favourite low carb beer or soda

Recipe: Low Carb Gluten Free Coconut Cookies

The hunt for the perfect low carb sweet treat continues. These cookies are great because they're low carb, gluten free and nut free meaning you can serve them at school and work functions to cover many diet needs. Due to the high oil and low flour ingredients you should treat this dough as you would shortbread.

Low Carb Gluten Free Coconut Cookies

1/2 cup raw coconut flour

1/3 cup unsweetened coconut

1/2 tspn baking soda

4 tbpsn butter

2 tbspn coconut oil

1 cup Splenda

1 egg

Method

• Preheat the oven to 165C (325F)
• Combine dry ingredients in a bowl and mix well
• Melt the butter and the coconut oil in the microwave for 20 secs on high
• Add the melted oils and the egg to the dry ingredients
• Mix well using an electric hand mixture or wooden spoon
• Tip the mixture onto parchment paper and knead into a dough
• Place a second piece of parchment paper over the top of the dough and roll to around 5mm depth
• Place the rolled dough into the fridge - the oils will need to set slightly before you are able to cut the cookie shapes
• Cut the dough using a small glass or a cookie cutter - due to the high oil content the dough can be volatile simpler shapes are easier to prepare
• Reform the ball of dough, the heat from your hands should be enough to make the oils malleable again and then roll flat
• Repeat until all the mixture is used
• Place on baking paper and put in the oven to bake for 5-7 minutes
• Once browned leave to cool on a cooling rack, the dough will firm significantly once cooled
• Makes around 24 small cookies
• Macros per cookie; 50 calories, 3.4g carbs (1.5g net), 3.8g fat

Keto friendly recipes: Low Carb Peanut Butter Cookies

This is my first round of low carb baking and boy is it an easy recipe. 

Low Carb Peanut Butter Cookies

1 cup of chunky peanut butter
1 cup of cream cheese
2 eggs
1.5 cups splenda
Whole peanuts for garnish

Method

• Preheat the oven to 180C
• Measure peanut butter and place in a mixing bowl
• Put the cream cheese in the microwave for 10 secs to soften then add to the bowl
• Put eggs and Splenda in the bowl and mix thoroughly. If you use an electric mixer be careful as this batter is very soft and can splash
• Place baking paper on a baking tin, put a spoon of batter about 2 inches apart for each cookie. Smaller cookies are best as these are very calorie dense
• Flatten the dough with a fork to form a cookie, these cookies will not spread so the size of  the cookie will remain the same after baking
• Press one whole roasted peanut into the top of each cookie
• Bake for 15 mins and then place on a cooling rack once cooked
• The cookies will be very soft while warm, best to wait until cooled before picking up
• Makes around 24 cookies 
• Nutrition below is for the whole batch. Macros per cookie are 92 calories, 3g Carbs (2.3 Net), 7.6g fat

Keto friendly recipes: Low Carb Vegie Fritters

When you first start out on a low carb diet you think you can never get sick of bacon and eggs. A few months later and you find yourself dragging your feet towards the skillet! Here's my favourite brunch treat - Corn Fritters - made keto friendly.

Low Carb Vegie Fritters

1 capsicum (bell pepper)
1/2 onion
1 cup raw spinach
1/2 cup almond meal/flour
3 large eggs
1/2 cup unsweetened almond milk
salt and pepper to taste
oil for frying

Method

• Dice the onions and capsicum into small pieces, about 1cm (1/4 inch) in width
• Hold the spinach in a bunch with your hand and shred into small slivers
• Put in a mixing bowl then add the almond flour

Mix the almond flour through until the vegies are coated in the flour

Crack the eggs into a bowl, add salt and pepper and the almond milk and then beat until well mixed

• Add the liquid egg mix into the mixing bowl and stir well, the almond flour should thicken and cause a batter with the liquid
• If the consistency is wrong add another tbspn of almond flour

• Lightly oil a flat pan or skillet and heat on a medium flame
• Add a wooden spoon full of the vegetable batter to form each fritter
• Keep on a medium heat or the fritter will burn before the egg and vegetables cook through

• When the sides of the fritters begin to cook flip quickly with a spatula and fry on the other side until cooked through (should be 2-3 mins or less)

• Top with your favourite keto friendly toppings - here I have pictured Sour Cream and Tapatio Hot Sauce and Goat Cheese with Basil Pesto
• This recipe should make 6 fritters - 2 per person is a solid meal. 
• Nutritional info below is for the whole batch. Macros per person are 301 calories, 9 carbs (6 net), 25g fat.
• If you want to drop the calories and/or fat then omit the toppings and dust lightly with salt and pepper before serving

Snapshot: Smokehouse 21, Portland OR

Smokehouse 21 is another fairly new restaurant much touted by Eater's guide to PDX. BBQ is like god's gift to low carb dieting so we just had to combine a diet friendly meal with our love of all things smoked.

Smokehouse 21 smoke all their own meat on site and as we drew closer up the street you could smell the deliciousness and the sweet smoking woods. My mouth was watering already.

I want to own this table

We arrived around 7pm and the place was already busy, we got the last free table and watched as many got turned away considering ourselves very lucky. Despite the busyness the service was fast and friendly.

Bacon Molasses Cornbread with warm honey butter syrup $2USD

This was the boy's starter and disappeared in a moment with many smiles. 

Deviled Eggs with Mustard and Hot Link $4USD

Devilled eggs are starting to make a comeback from the 70s appearing on menus all over the US and I welcome them with open arms. Particularly when topped with sliced, smokey delicious home made sausages.

BBQ Sauces provided free of charge

Rather than assume what sauce you want with your smoked delights they provide a range of fantastic sauces. I loved the hot sauce with the pork but the mustard sauce complimented the hot links perfectly. 

Combo plate with choice of meats and sides $18USD

You can choose from a range of wonderful meats and sides for the combo plate. I chose Brisket, Hot Links and Pulled Pork which are my favourites. The sides include plenty of heavier options like BBQ Beans, Coleslaw and Mac'n'Cheese but I chose the carb friendly coleslaw and pickled vegetables. I love that so many Portland restaurants seem to make fresh seasonal pickled vegetables. 

This is casual dining done very well. Beautiful meats, solid service, reasonable prices. I only wish that the restaurant were more than a few tables so that all those sad looking people turned away could have gotten in. They do take away though and for BBQ this good I would turn a blind eye to a guilty fan eating in their car.

Smokehouse 21

http://smokehouse21.com/

413 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, Oregon

971-373-8990

Casual dining, boutique BBQ
Vegetarians need not apply


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What I'm watching right now...

I watch a lot of food television; in fact with 500 odd channels all I seem to do is default back to the Food Network and Travel Channel. If like many people I know your'e in a country without Food Network or just don't watch live broadcast TV to know what's on then you might find my current TV roundup of interest. Don't worry I still watch Top Chef and I miss the Australian MasterChef like the blazes but these are the 'new finds' and American classics I love.

Restaurant Impossible

I am simply shocked I had not heard of this show until I moved to the US. Robert Irving is like a slightly more lovable Gordon Ramsay. Unlike the US edition of Kitchen Nightmares which focuses on family meltdowns and drama drama drama Restaurant Impossible works on the fundamentals of food businesses. Good food, health code compliance, dish budgeting and service management all feature. Irving with his gruff manliness and delightful sledgehammer wielding ways don't hurt either. I love this show so much I watched 6 Seasons back to back.

The Layover

Anthony Bourdain highlights whirlwind foodie adventures in hot commuter locations like Singapore, Atlanta and Los Angeles. Places you get stuck with no time, no idea what's going on and a 6am airport deadline. As a regular traveller and a Bourdain fan this is perfect content and less derivative than Bourdain's other current TV shows.

Restaurant Stakeout

Gruff but successful business men seems to be the formula America loves but this show is a watchable and somewhat terrifying look into food businesses. The premise is a "when the cats away" scenario where the owner of a business calls in the restauranteur host to identify problematic staff and processes. Armed with many hidden cameras and a series of mystery diners presenting 'challenges' like allergies, forgotten wallets and dropped orders they identify thieves, gamblers, drinkers and shitty servers time and time again. Watch for the episodes where someone is running another business from the owner's restaurant.

Food Network Star

Famous for being the reality competition show that launched the stellar career of Guy Fieri Food Network Star is not a cooking competition per se but a media personality search akin to Idol or X Factor. They're looking for someone who can host a TV show, not necessarily someone who is an amazing foodie. Be ready for some cringe inducing camera tests and the occasional fame hunter.  That being said it's a great insight into the behind the scene creation of a great TV host and you get to see some interesting food along the way.

Eat Street

The gourmet food truck revolution is one that I welcome with open arms. Eat Street is a 'best pick of the litter' guide to awesome trucks from all over the US. They take real small business owners and walk through great recipes and snacks.

Diners, Drive ins and Dives

So you do get a little sick of it on repeat day in and day out but the format is very watchable, Fieri is charismatic and enthusiastic and the food is down home comfort delicious. There's nothing high faluting here but if you like sandwiches, dumplings and great diner food this is very upbeat feel good foodie TV. They also have a great food map for finding locations throughout the US.

Shows to avoid

There is a lot of food TV out there and that means there's a lot of bad food TV. Sometimes bad shows happen to good people. Here are the runts of the litter.

• The Taste - Trying to turn The Voice format into a Food competition based on what amounts to an amuse bouche. Embarrassingly bad.
• Chef Wanted with Anne Burrell - This woman is like a train wreck. Her voice, her hair, her food. It's like Phyllis Diller the Food Star.
• Chopped - This show just seems pointless to me. They run an entire food competition end to end in 1 hour, meaning you have no opportunity to care about the contestants.
• Unique Eats - You know I *want* to love this show about unique food and boutique eateries but the reviews are scripted by the stores themselves and then read by Cooking show hosts. Painful in its delivery.
• Sandwich King - The premise is simple and awesome. Find, make and eat great sammiches. I love sammiches! Unfortunately the hosts speaking style makes me want to eat my own face.
• Mystery Diners - This wants to be Restaurant Stakeout but the host is clueless and the 'mystery diners' are 4th rate actors that stand out like a sore thumb. 

Review: Raven and Rose, Portland OR

Let's start with saying that Portland is my kind of town. Everywhere you look there are food carts, boutique coffee roasters, farmers markets and a plethora of delicious sounding restaurants. The Eater Where to Eat Now guides have become my new bible for travelling in the US (along with Where Chefs Eat) and Raven and Rose had all the signs of being exactly the kind of restaurant I like.

Housed in the historic Ladd Carriage House Raven and Rose has a Poe-esque setting sure to appeal to a goth on a foodie adventure. More importantly though it has a menu heavy on quirky meat offerings and regional wines that sits well with my tastes. 

I have a terrible habit of messing with the course orders of fine dining restaurants, ordering sides as appetizers, mixing plates and sharing family style. The staff at Raven and Rose were happy to accommodate without the slightest complaint. Dishes appeared in the combination and order we requested and they chuckled at our intent on traversing the entire menu. As seems standard in large restaurants in the US we were served by separate greeters, waitresses and sommeliers all of whom kept a steady pace and charming manner. No snooty wine suggestions or forgetful servers to be found just great service from start to finish. 

2001 R. Lopez de Heredia “Vina Tondonia Reserva”, Rioja SPA, Tempranillo  $75USD

Since we were going for mostly rich land animal proteins I went for this Rioja Tempranillo, delicious and the right price. This is definitely a wine that needs a few years though, don't order it if they're offering 2006 or after. This bottle was perfectly aged with a soft smoothness that cut through the rich meat. 

Steak tartare  $14USD

We're avid raw meat fans so steak tartare was a must. This was fantastic, excellent quality meat chopped to have texture but still smooth enough to eat raw. The spice mix however was the real winner with fresh green herbs and just the right punch of chilli. The dressing had a slight acidic quality that paired perfectly with the wine. 

Farmhouse terrine  $9USD

You know how you win me over heart and soul? Terrines and pates. Add in fresh seasonal vegetables pickled in house and a healthy serving of good quality seeded mustard and I'm in love. The great thing about this dish was that the vegetables were crisp and tart, setting off the rich smoothness of the terrine. Given that I eat primarily carb free this gave a much needed texture juxtaposition. 

Farm egg & wild greens $10USD

With all that meat we needed a few greens to cut through the fat. A farmhouse egg soft boiled is also a favourite of ours. Just look at the colour and quality of that egg, I haven't seen an egg like that since we left Japan. In the US produce of this quality is rare, saying a lot about the food culture of the kitchen at Raven and Rose.

Flatiron Steak $25USD

Flatiron steak seems to be a bit of a trend in the US food scene at the moment; getting the most out of a cheaper cut in expensive animals like Wagyu breeds. Accordingly this was the off menu special of the day. The steak is treated well with a slow roast that takes out the toughness that Flatiron can have. The jus was a delicious red wine reduction served with caramelised onion and a soft French blue. Only complaint? Americans can't stop themselves cutting your meat before they serve it to you. If you like a rarer beef as the boy does this prevents a problem as the temperature changes quickly.

Rabbit two ways, buttermilk biscuit, creamed spinach $25USD

You can almost guarantee that if there's a rabbit on the menu I will order it; even as a child I was more interested in eating bunnies than owning them. The haunch and breast of the rabbit were served with the perfect moistness - as difficult to achieve with rabbit as with turkey. I often order creamed spinach as a side - and in fact was about to do so until I realised that it came with my meal. This rendition didn't disappoint, rich, smooth and creamy and perfectly paired with the rabbit. Sadly I had to forgo the biscuit but the boy assures me it was delicious. 

Beetroot salad walnuts, endive, goat cheese $11USD

Another attempt to muck with the menu I ordered the beet salad instead of any of their listed sides. To be honest this was probably the only dish that we ordered that I wasn't wowed by. Goats cheese and beats still seems to be novelty in the US and I guess this pairing was meant to be enough on its own but really... I've had better and the puree at the bottom of the bowl left us confused. 

Butterscotch pudding, whipped cream, toasted streusel   $8USD

Eventually we will get used to US food terminology (that's a Plat principal not an Entree!) but when the boy ordered this pudding we were surprised to get what amounted to a cream pot when we were expecting a bread pudding. Not that he left a single drop in the quaint country style Mason jar. 

Lime parfait, spice biscuit, salted caramel $8USD

You might think this is my dessert but no, no cheese course and no low carb dessert options I ordered only a coffee and cognac. This is actually the boy's *second* dessert. They delivered this by mistake, fixed the mistake immediately and left the plate to a delighted but very full man. 

A nod to the after dinner drinks is also in order here. The coffee was perfectly made, strong European style coffee without the usual end of meal disappointment that so often comes with coffee in the US. They included Flights of drinks as well and while I was swayed by the Cognac flight at $44USD this was steep even though it included a very tempting Camus XO. 

Not that the prices at Raven and Rose are unreasonable, in fact when the bill came I had to snort and signed happily even after a hefty tip to the excellent serving staff. In Australia this meal would have come in a good $250 more expensive.

Summary? Food in the US can be a horrifying ethical horrorfest or a delightful boutique experience; Raven and Rose provided one of the best meals I have had since moving to this country. Good service, good choices, seasonal excellent produce and a charming location next to leafy parks. Add in a set of dish choices that seems custom made to my palette and I will be thinking fondly of this meal for years to come. 

Raven & Rose

ravenandrosepdx.com

1331 SW Broadway, Portland, OR ‎

(503) 222-7673

High end farmhouse comfort food

Worth a stop when travelling the Pacific Northwest


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