Review: Izakaya Kou, San Francisco

Izakaya are Japanese gastro pubs that serve up small tapas style plates that pair well with your favourite drink or 10. Unsurprisingly this makes it one of my favourite cuisines, and in particular it's great for large parties where everyone can find something to nibble while you chat and drink. 

Izakaya Kou is one of my favourite establishments to take visitors to San Francisco. There's great nibbles, import Kirin on tap and it's not far from our house in Japantown. Kou makes a great stop for work drinks or after a theatre visit in Japantown or the Fillmore district. 

The plates are fairly small which allows you to have a little bit of everything, buy a table full and share with your friends!

Tsukemono $5USD

Start with something light and nibbly while you peruse the menu. Their pickles are a mix of store bought and fresh Japanese vegetables like daikon, nasubi, carrots and cucumbers

Edamame $4USD

Boiled salted edamame are beloved by just about everyone and the fresh sea salt makes the ice cold beer go down faster.

Maguro sashimi $10USD

Raw tuna is one of my favourite things in the world. Sadly I think this tuna has been frozen but is still well textured and tasty. There are a number of healthy alternatives like this sashimi, vegetables and vegetarian sushi if one is trying to eat sensibly, though that can be hard when everyone else digs into the beer and fried delights. 

Kou sashimi $18USD

Raw salmon, big eye tuna and yellowtail are served on a fresh bed of ice with shiso leaf and wasabi. The fish is fresh and reasonably well cut and the decoration is sweet even if inedible garnishes annoy me. 

Gyoza $6USD

Who doesn't love dumplings and beer? These gyoza are freshly made with super thin skins and a light  pork filling with lots of scallion. If you're not adventurous these are delicious for any age and  contain no seafood. 

Tori karaage $7USD

Once the drinking starts it's time for some fried food. Their karaage chicken is slightly spicy but lightly breaded in a sesame batter that is crisp without being too oily. The spicy pepper aoili that comes with it is not traditional but is simply delicious.

Chicken Tsukune $6USD

Tsukune are one of my favourite bar snacks that we discovered after a boozy night out in Kyoto. Ground chicken is spiced with garlic and ginger and then grilled with a sweet barbecue sauce. I generally recommend several of these since they disappear in a snap.

Okonomiyaki $12USD

Okonomiyaki is some of the best drinking food there is. Mixed vegetables are stir fried with egg then formed into a cake (think Japanese bubble and squeak) and doused in toppings. The okonomiyaki at Kou is made with American smokey bacon which pairs swimmingly with the sweet sticky sauce and mayonnaise. Topped with heapings of shaved dried tuna, scallion and seaweed this is all kinds of savoury deliciousness. Okonomiyaki is very hard to find in the US and this is a great rendition. 

Beef tataki $10USD

Raw beef is lightly seared and served with red onion and a lovely herb salad. The beef is corn fed but the preparation is very nice. 

Kabocha croquette $8USD

This is their winning dish, soft morish and delicious, fried but not heavy yet sticky and savoury. Prepared a little like a vegetarian Scotch egg with a soft boiled egg in the middle covered in mashed kabocha squash, breaded fried, then covered in sticky okonomiyaki sauce. Yum!

Best enjoyed in groups!

Izakaya Kou also has some more standard Japanese fare like soba or ramen noodles, sushi and tempura. There are plenty of vegetarian options like salads, gratins and tofu dishes. They also have a fair number of grilled meat options like bacon wrapped asparagus, kurobuta pork sausage or crispy pork belly. The staff will also bring gluten free soy and other options if required, all in all this makes it a great destination for groups with varied food requirements. 

Admittedly the service can be a bit variable; on the weekend they sometimes seem overwhelmed but as a mid week destination for a small group or a date it's a great option. There are small party rooms available for those seeking privacy - booking is recommended and a $200 minimum spend is required. 

Izakaya Kou

http://www.izakayakou.com/

1560 Fillmore St

San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 441-9294

Japanese gastro pub and small plates

Review: Ramen Underground, San Francisco

Continuing on our mission to eat all the ramen in Japantown in San Francisco is Ramen Underground which has actually become a staple for us. The cute little izakaya style restaurant is tucked at the top of the Japantown shopping centre away from the maddening crowd during Summer festival season. 

The decor is decidedly traditional Japanese izakaya style with dark wooden fences and paper screens throughout. 

Gzyoza $4.95USD

Not amazing quality but definitely hand made fresh regularly. You can get them steamed or fried or even on top of your ramen. 

Tofu tomato salad $7.95USD

As someone who has trouble with dairy this Asian take on Caprese salad is perfect as a side for hot soup or during the warmer months. 

Spicy wings 3 for $4.95USD

Not quite buffalo not quite karaage these wings are slightly spicy with no heavy bread coating and a hint of sesame oil. 

Spicy sesame cold ramen salad $10.95USD

This cold ramen salad is a little deceptive as the sesame mayo dressing is far spicier than first appearance would allow. Served with cold corn, mushrooms, greens and a slice of roasted pork this is a great Summer alternative to hot soup.

Miso Ramen with Tofu $9.95USD

I find their miso soup a little thin, lacking the collagen that I like in a ramen but the miso is good and the tofu is fantastic. I do wish they would put more toppings in their ramen though since I feel I have to add multiple things before I get a full meal. 

Spicy miso chashu ramen $9.95USD

Sadly they lack a real tantanmen with that thick thick soup I love but since I don't eat much wheat anymore I usually order the noodles on the side so that I can enjoy the soup without all that carby bloat and related post lunch nap

Habanero ramen with Egg and Scallions $12.95USD

Phew this is all for my man and not for me; I like spice but not the sharp green flavour and afterburn of the Habanero. He however thinks this is the best ramen known to man. Add in an egg and a lot of scallions and he is a happy happy diner.

Spicy tonkotsu ramen with egg and tofu $13.95USD

Again the tonkotsu needs a little more depth and thickness for my taste but it is a very good broth and not too heavy on the stomach. Good quality soft boiled eggs and excellent tofu round out the dish. 

This is how you know you're eating in San Francisco.

The food is very good but the service can lack a little, they tend to hire Japanese students who don't always have restaurant experience. That said it's a great little lunch date place and conveniently placed near the Daiso and Kinokuniya making it a great place to sit down and review your purchases in or rest your weary feet. This is also one of the few places in Japantown that will do a vegetarian broth making it a good option to take vegetarian and vegan friends.

Ramen Underground

1675 Post St
San Francisco, CA 94115

http://www.ramenunderground.com/

Casual ramen restaurant in izakaya setting

Great for lunch

Review: Shanghai 456, New York City

Finding regional Chinese cuisine is surprisingly hard in San Francisco so when we walked past this Shanghai (Hu) Cuisine restaurant we had to stop in. It was brunch time which means yum cha, pretty much my favourite meal of all time.

The restaurant was not large but it was packed to the gills. Encouragingly we sat next to an excited group of foodie Chinese women having a ladies lunch. Not only did they look happy as anything with their food but we caught each other curiously checking out what dishes came to the table and had to laugh... one of those happy moments that transcends language.

Green Beans $5.50USD

Green beans cooked with caramelised onion, shallots and garlic. It's usually a good idea to get greens with dimsum to offset the fatty heavy dumplings. The sweet onion was cooked to perfection.

Green Onion Pancake $2.50USD

Soft crisp shallot pancake is fried in crispy layers. These pancakes were huge and I admit we were unable to finish them despite being delicious. For $2.50 these aren't much more expensive than buying them from the bakery cold.

Pork Xiao Long Bao $5.25USD

Once can't eat at a Shanghai restaurant without ordering xiao long bao - a refined soup dumpling that fills with fragrant liquid when steamed. The secret to xiao long bao is making a jellied stock in the dumpling mix that melts when heated. This rendition was excellent, with paper fine pastry perfectly formed using a traditional 18 fold method.

Dumpling in Spicy Sauce $5.50USD

This dish was what made the stop worthwhile and I will be tracking it down again on future trips to New York. I assumed when I ordered it that it would come in a standard chilli oil and vinegar sauce. Instead hearty pork and shallot dumplings are boiled and served in a sticky dan dan mien sauce - a combination of ground sesame paste and chilli. If I could have I would have licked the plate... just sensational. At under $6 this is one of the best bargains in New York.

There's only so much two people can eat so sadly we didn't get to explore the menu as much as I would like but there were plenty of beckoning plates like pan fried breakfast buns, pancakes filled with beef, crab xiao long bao, beef soup, triple delights and sticky Shanghai fried meats. 

Shanghai 456 is one of those hole in the wall eateries that proves that good food in New York doesn't need to be all fancy menus and celebrity chefs... good simple food done very well makes this place worth a walk in Chinatown. 

Shanghai 456

www.456shanghaicuisine.com/ (currently parked)

69 Mott St # A
New York, NY 10013
United States
(212) 964-0003

No nonsense Shanghai cuisine and dim sum

Snapshot: East Village Dumpling Walk, New York City

This had started out as a post work trip to the New York branch of Ippudo Ramen but it was not to be. Their policy of no reservations meant that even leaving work early there was a 3.5 hour wait in the cold by the time we got there. 

Instead we decided to do a little walking tour of the best of the Village's Asian eats, buying small plates at three fantastic eateries in the neighbourhood.

Mimi Cheng's Dumplings

Mimi Cheng's reminds me of hole in the wall eateries in Asia, a small menu done very well with a quiet Chinese grandma folding dumplings in a corner. The decor is what you might politely call "minimal" a few row tables and some stools surrounded by blackboards harking prices. 

The Reinvented Classic 6 for $8USD or 8 for $10USD

A classic guotie (pot sticker) stuffed with pork, boy choy and cabbage. The wrapper is delightfully thin and folded to in a classic style fried or steamed to order. 

The Mimi Cheng  6 for $8USD or 8 for $10USD

A lighter Chicken and Zucchini stuffed dumpling is folded into a dim sum triangle shape using the same dumpling wrapper as the classic. 

Seasonal offerings are made daily and once sold out gone forever; I was very sad to have missed the Autumnal Thanksgiving Turkey dumplings. Still their standard jiaozi and their delicious "secret sauce" take on  Chinese spicy sesame dipping sauce are well worth a stop.

www.mimichengs.com

179 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10003

Momofuku Ssam

David Chang is one of those celebrity chefs whose popularity I think is over rated; sure he's brought modern Asian Fusion cuisine to the New York scene but as a long time Sydney resident this is hardly ground breaking to me. Still if you're willing to brave the wait there are some delicious dishes on offer.

The hostess is like something from a New York sitcom trope barking orders, turning away even the wealthiest of clients and ruling with an iron fist (and an iPad checklist). They've vastly improved the experience since my first trip to a Momofuku restaurant though. Diners names are taken and a time to seating given. Rather than standing in the cold or jammed into the vestibule, as in the past, we were given the opportunity to wander off and texted when our table was ready. 

Most of the Ssam menu focuses on Asian influenced dishes and barbecue but I'm here for the Bao.

Buffalo pork buns – crispy pork belly, hot sauce, blue cheese

Pure fusion madness that just works. Crispy fried pork belly is paired with one of those ultimate New York flavour profiles - Buffalo hot sauce, crumbled blue cheese and red cabbage coleslaw. Everything is served on a soft folded mantou bao, a sweet wheat dough known to most from char siu bao. 

Steamed buns – pork belly, hoisin, cucumber, scallion

Soft slow baked pork belly matches perfectly with sweet sticky Hoisin sauce, scallion and freshly made pickled Cucumber. 

momofuku.com

207 2nd Ave

New York, NY 10003

(212) 254-3500

BaoHaus

BaoHaus was the absolute star for me on this trip. We took a chance on it while we waited for our seats at Momofuku Ssam and honest... it was so good it made Chang's offering disappointing in comparison. The brainchild of internet darling Eddie Huang BaoHaus offers casual Taiwanese American eats.

The restaurant is totally ghetto - covered in graffiti and staffed by super excited urban warriors. Korean and American hip hop streetstars smile and push fried chicken on you gleefully. The staff are all super invested in the business and took the time to chat not only about the food and the restaurant but about our travels and planned New York dining. I can't remember the last time I visited a business with such excited staff and their excitement was infectious as well as being well founded.

Sometimes the simple things are absolutely the best and if you're more interested in great food than status BaoHaus is the place for you.

Chairman Bao  $8USD

 Berkshire pork belly is braised in a soy and all spice mix served with  relish, crushed peanuts, red sugar, and cilantro. The peanuts and cilantro offer an almost Vietnamese taste to offset the Taiwanese lu rou fan pork. Absolutely amazing, pure genius in taste matching and completely unique to my experience.

Birdhaus Bao $8USD

Soft, moist, brined chicken is breaded in a southern style batter served salted with a mouthwatering citrus aioli and more nuts and cilantro. The fried chicken and mayonnaise is unsurprisingly quite heavy on the stomach (and the waist) but entirely worth it. If I could reverse engineer their aioli recipe I would be one happy cook. 

baohausnyc.com

238 E 14th St

New York, NY 10003

 (646) 669-8889

Review: Waraku, San Francisco

Our attempt to eat at all the ramen restaurants in Japantown, San Francisco continues and Waraku is an excellent staple with a slightly more upscale feel than the other offerings in the neighbourhood.

Waraku is definitely the kind of place you want to go to for a mid week meal or in the afternoon. The decor is wonderful and the staff attentive but the place can get very busy and I feel like they've added too many tables. This is definitely not a place for a first date, I feel like sometimes I am sitting at a table with strangers and I find their conversation invasive. Being only about a block from the Peacetown mall this is a surprisingly easy oasis during events in Japantown.

The food at Waraku has a limited menu but absolutely everything we've had there has been wonderful; so long as you're not after Vegetarian food.

Hanetsuki Gyoza $4.50USD

Thin skinned pork and vegetable dumplings are cooked in a way that causes a skin to form allowing you to play pull apart games with your friends. Good fun with good dumplings. 

Hiyayakko $4.50USD

Cold tofu is topped with generous amounts of ginger, scallion, dried nori and bonito. The tofu is obviously made fresh and has the telltale cottage look of air throughout. I would have preferred a slightly smoother tofu but one cannot knock fresh tofu in the US and this is a very good dish. 

Karaage $5.00USD

The ubiquitous fried chicken snack in a sesame and soy batter. This version is crisp and crunchy and not too oily. Thankfully the serves are also on the small side so you don't find yourself eating a day's worth of calories in one dish. 

Tofu salad $7.00USD

When I ordered the Tofu salad I was expecting a side dsish but instead a huge platter of tofu and greens came out. Served in a toasted sesame (goma) vinaigrette and simply covered in cubes of the freshly made tofu. Good for those avoiding the fried food. 

Kakuni-don $4.50USD

Small rice bowls can be bought on the lunch menu that are not much larger than a soup bowl and perfect for tasting a few things on the menue. This one is kakuni which is a braised fatty pork belly seasoned and topped with scallions.

Shoyu chashu ramen $10USD

A plain soy ramen served with wilted spinach, bamboo shoots, pork and egg. The noodles are a good quality chewy egg noodle. Tonkotsu (pork bone) soup is available for those who like a meatier soup and I find that this is the best broth of any of the ramen offerings in Japantown. If one could combine this soup with the noodles from Sapporo-ya you might almost have the perfect local ramen. 

They also offer a tsukemen tonkotsu version with the noodles on the side with a thicker soup for dipping for $9USD. Additional toppings like pork, mushrooms, sprouts and tofu can be added for $1-3USD. Their spicy miso ball (50c) can be added to any soup and is highly recommended for those who like a stronger ramen.

Tantanmen $9.00USD

Tantanmen is my all time favourite noodle dish and unfortunately Waraku only serves it during the colder months. Minced pork is fried in a sweet and savoury seasoning and served in a spicy sesame tonkotsu broth with coriander smoked egg.

The noodles are decent, the broths are good but the real star of this restaurant is the smoked soft boiled egg, order two it's worth it. Boiled to  soft gelatinous perfection you get one in the ramens but an extra can be ordered for $1USD or as a canape on their own for $4.50USD.

Waraku

http://www.warakuus.com/

1638 Post St

San Francisco, CA 94115

Upscale ramen eatery in Japantown, San Francisco

Review: Marmolada, Krakow Poland

The owners of Marmolada have several of the most highly rated restaurants in the old town of Krakow but of those I ate at this was my favourite. Like a lot of cuisines from Central and Eastern Europe Polish food is heavy and focuses on meat and pickles. Great for warming up but expect to hunt for green vegetables and salad - sparkling water helps cut through the fat. 

Its place directly on Rynek Glowny (the stunning Krakow Mediaeval square) makes it expensive by Polish standards but the average Western tourist will find the "lavish" prices somewhat economic. For the most part the USD stays steady at around 3PLN, so divide prices by 3 for translation to USD.

Pierogi z farszem z miesa - w piecu zpiakane (Meat filled dumplings with onion and crackling) 19PLN

I will take dumplings over almost any other food regardless of the culture, so I came to Poland ready for pierogi and lot of them. These were excellent, lightly fried and then oven baked they will remind many of gyoza/pot stickers but with a richer slow cooked meat filling. These were easily the best example I had while in Poland and at less than $7 for a plate served charmingly in its pan this is worth a stop. 

Poledwica wolowa najprzediesjszego gatunku - wypieczona wedlug uznania z sosem z zielonego pieprzu (Beef tenderloin in a green pepper sauce) 56PLN

A well cooked beef tenderloin steak, while you can get this anywhere the creamy rich Polish sauces are worth checking out. 

Sledz tradycycyjny marynowany z cebulka w oliwie przedniego gatunku (Salted herring marinated with onion and olive oil) 14PLN

Nothing says grey European skies like cold salted herring; my only surprise was that this wasn't for breakfast. Sadly I cannot comment because herring with creamy salads is a course I'll skip. The recipient seemed to enjoy it, if you're into that kind of thing. 

Rozgrzewajacy gulasz wolowy z suszonymi grzbami, rozmarynem i aromatycznym tymiankiem (Beef goulash with aromatics) 24PLN

Goulash is the other dish I love to eat in this part of the world - slow cooked spicey and creamy stew heavy on the paprika and herbs. Try it with knedle (Polish spatzle) or kopytka (Polish gnocchi) for a warm filling comfort meal. 

Meals are served separately to side dishes, so be aware when ordering that vegetables or starches will need to be ordered separately. This has the advantage in a group meal of being able to mix up side dishes "family style". 

Steamed Green Vegetables 8PLN

We were glad to see these and surprised to find them lacking in crackling or oil. After endless Pork you too would be joyed to see plain vegetables. 

Pan fried potato wedge 8PLN

Fried potatoes, golden crispy and well cooked; perfect with a hearty Polish meat dish. 

Mizeria (Cucumber Salad) 8PLN

Looking for something a bit lighter? Cucumbers are one of the reliably available green sides and almost always served with sour cream. This sour cream was rich and thick, more like a creme fraiche and mixed with fresh dill. Perfect to cut through the heavier dishes. 

The Polish do good coffee, so stop at the end of the meal for an Espresso. If you've room after the heavy food you should definitely try a local pastry as Krakow is famous for its delicious fruit and nut based desserts. 

Szarlotka prosto z pieca jakiej na pewno nie jadles z lodami waniliowymi (Apple pie with vanilla ice cream) 13PLN

Shown without the ice cream due to the dairy intolerants at the meal. Delicous buttery short crust pastry filled with local apple and spices. They sell these streusel topped pies and slices everywhere, excellent with a strong cup of coffee. 

Tradycyjni delikatny sernik krakowski z gorzka czekolada, na cieplo podany (Traditional Krakow cheesecake served warm with bitter chocolate sauce) 15PLN

We debated for some time about this dish before confirming with the waitress; this was no translation error but indeed a hot cheesecake. Curious we ordered and shared it. A familiar semi sweet ricotta based cheese cake is warmed in the oven and served with chocolate sauce. I can't help but feel this would have been better warm and stuffed with fruit like raisins or cherries. 

There is some debate on Yelp and TripAdvisor that this restaurant deserves its fame and (contextually) hefty price tag. Most of the arguments seem to be about poor table placement. Like many restaurants in Stare Miesto this is housed in a Mediaeval (14th Century AD) building and thus space can be a little cramped. We had a large group and so fared very well, I would suggest if you are alone or in a pair that you are specific about your seating requirements.

The service was good, the food excellent and the atmosphere lovely. The delightful building of antiquity is furnished with homey feeling Polish furnishings and there was a delightful live music duo throughout our dinner. Bonus points for playing Satie, Nyman and Tiersen throughout the meal I couldn't have picked a better play list if I tried.

Marmolada

http://marmoladarestauracja.pl/

Upscale traditional Polish food
Famous without feeling touristy

Review: Colibri Mexican Bistro, San Francisco

Whenever we have international visitors they invariably want to try the local and very authentic Mexican food. While there are many choices for budget friendly taquerias in the Mission sometimes a more refined outing is called for and this is when I take them to Colibri.

The front of the restaurant is an unassuming shop front not far from Union Square but inside are wonderful fresh Mexican dishes that never fail to impress.

Guacamole $12USD

The guacamole is made to order with the ingredients and heat of your choice. It comes served in a heavy stone bowl, with various chili sauces and a choice of fresh handmade tortillas or chips (or maybe both!). 

Empanadas $13USD

Freshly empanadas (baked wheat dumplings) stuffed with ground pork, onion, garlic, and roasted peppers. Served with a chipotle sour cream and pink pickled cabbage. The stuffing isn't too heavy and the dough is light and crisp. I can't get past the pickle though, I wish there were about 5 times as much of it.

Duck in Mole Verde $20USD

Pan seared duck breast cooked to perfection and served in a green mole sauce with peppery green leaves and a fried potato cake. The sauce is divine and the accompaniments set off the dish perfectly.

Carnitas $18USD

This isn't the kind of carnitas you're going to find in the back of  food truck; prime pork is marinated and served with guajillo and arbol chili salsa. I advise asking for additional fresh tortillas for the carnitas and excusing yourself as you wolf them down with your hands.

Pechuga Rellena de Huitlacoche $18USD

If you're a fan of earthy tastes then huitlacoche (a black corn fungus) will likely light your taste buds on fire. For me it's a little overpowering but I'm assured that this chicken breast stuffed with vegetables and huitlacoche is delicous.

Mole Poblano $18USD

The over the top delicious and decidedly moreish Mexican dish of ground spices, nuts and chocolate over bone in chicken. This is a wonderful rendition and leaves you wanting more.

Arroz a la Mexicana $5USD

Frijoles Negros $5USD

Nopales Asados (cactus) $8USD

Ensalada Mixta $10USD

Sides are very reasonably priced and all excellent - no rice left all day in a steam truck this is light spiced and delicious. I generally skip the rice and beans and get a salad, but sometimes the staples are just right. Think about the size of your party and order 1 side between 2 people - most of the main dishes are very rich.

Room for dessert? Growing up with a lot of Spanish food the flavours of Mexican desserts always appeal to me - creamy caramels and subtle spices. 

Churros Rellenos  $8USD

Fried donuts stuffed to the gills with thick dulce de leche caramel served with caramel sauce and rich ice cream.  

Caballeros Pobres $8USD

A freshly made creamy pastry is fried and dusted in sugar and cinnamon. This strikes me right in the nostalgia bone being very similar to the leche fritta dessert I grew up with (recipe).

A quick nod to the drinks at Colibri - their beer and tequila selection is excellent and may be worth a stop for drinks and small plates only. Their coffee is some of the best in the Bay Area, strong thick Mexican espresso that goes perfectly with the desserts. 

The service is to be commended also; I've only ever had excellent and quick service with no loss on the taste or quality. The prices are a little upmarket if you're used to bean and burrito Mexican but for a group dinner this is by no means expensive. Definitely recommended. 

Colibri Mexican Bistro

http://colibrimexicanbistro.net

White table Mexican

Great service and better coffee

438 Geary St

San Francisco

CA 94102

Ph: (415) 440-2737

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